Hi all!

Fun stuff to do in the Marquesas:  We only went to Ua Pou (Wa poo) and Nuku Hiva (the main port and Daniels bay).  Ua Pou was VERY nice.  We only anchored in the main anchorage, behind the breakwater.  Get in as far as you can - it shoals very gradually and there's only about .7m of tide - but leave room for ships to use the docks (they'll warn you if something's coming in).  You'll need a stern hook - place it with the dink to pull your bows towards the entrance to the bay (usually the head of the breakwater).  There is a good potable water tap at the beginning of the dock, but a 6m hose will make the job easier.  The Gendarmes are very nice, especially if you try a bit of French on them (they actually speak good English).  They gave us 3 month visas with only a letter from a travel agent saying we had tickets on deposit.

Go to the Marie (which also has internet access) and ask them to contact the museum curator (Pascal) to open the museum.  He will do so for just 1 boat, but if you spread the word around he'll appreciate it.  Pascal's sort of a 1 man tourism department and gave us a nice free tour and cultural info.  You can't buy fruits or veggies in Ua Pou, but we went to houses and asked.  Invariably the answer was a bunch of fruit and gracious refusal at the thought of payment.  The house just behind the Poste was especially good for Pamplemouse (their delicious grapefruit) and limes.  Bring a pack and take a BUNCH.  Bread is available past the Marie at the store with red Coca-Cola banners.  The bank is just beyond this (and doesn't look at all like a bank).  We walked to the other anchorage and it looked nice and protected but had no safe place to land a dinghy.

Be aware that Nuku Hiva isn't correctly placed on many electronic (or paper) charts - it can be as much as a mile out!  This was only a problem when we went to Daniels Bay.  The main bay in Nuku Hiva is fairly deep.  We didn't need a stern anchor, but some people used them anyway.  The dinghy dock is behind the quay - tie up beside the concrete steps.  The town has about 3 stores.  A nice walk to an old town-site can be had going North up the road beside the first store.  Go up to the gravel works and turn right through the gravel works.  Cross the stream and follow the main branch to the left (north).  You will start to see ancient building sites.  Go through the gate (bar across the road) and zig-zag up to the site.  You can also simply hitchhike up the paved road past the gravel works to get up to the top of the pass for the view.

For Daniels Bay, take your dinghy up the stream at high tide and walk up the old "Kings way".  It's about 2 hours to the base of the waterfall.  We went for a swim there and had lunch, but it might have been better (less bugs) just before fording the last stream.  There's a nice spot there that even has a braii-pit (BBQ) and a nice swim beach.  Folks along the way traded us (hats, T-shirts, $) for fruit on the way back.  Good water can be had at the head of the anchorage (right) bay, but make sure you ask first.

All the best -- Jon, Sue, Chris, and Amanda